Return to Bělehradská Street and walk until you reach the metro station I.P. Pavlova. Take & Pig’s Knee Trams 4 or 10 downhill. Dancing House: Exit 4th stop—Palackého náměstí—before bridge; turn right and walk along the river two blocks. An upscale French restaurant occupies the top two floors—Céleste. For a more reasonably priced fare, try Pig’s Knee: Continue on the tram one more stop—Zborovská—across bridge. Walk to the next street in the direction of the tram and turn right on Preslova. Find Smíchovský Radniční Sklípek at 553 Preslova.

Chapters: 2

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Dancing House


Excerpts from The God Complex: (Amazon ‘Look Inside’)

The world fell away under them. The level street leading up to the complex gave no indication that it sat perched high upon a hill overlooking all of southern Prague. While the view was not the most picturesque, it had character. Each morning when the sun rose, ten kilometers of character were projected through a series of floor-to-ceiling windows, filling the apartment with natural light. At night, specks of light throughout the valley below formed a pointillistic landscape.


Prague’s Dancing House
(aka Ginger & Fred)


The pig’s knee arrived minutes later, hanging on a metal hook suspended over what appeared to be a cutting board. Sauerkraut, horseradish, and mustard rounded out the dish. The hook was shaped like the number nine. The bottom of the nine was attached to the board, and the pork was speared by the metal curling under to form the top of the nine. The meat was tender and juicy, clearly a fattier portion of the pig for which the beer was a perfect accompaniment.